Cue the Andy Williams because for certain wine lovers out there, today (November 16th) is the official release day of the 2023 Beaujolais Nouveau! It is party time for this fun and spunky red wine, so let’s celebrate…what? You didn’t know about this official holiday? Curious what the carbonic maceration buzz is all about?
Well, let’s discuss this fun wine that put Beaujolais on the map and then we’ll dive into some perfect options for your holiday table(s). Once a part of Burgundy (like the red-headed stepchild), Beaujolais didn’t garner much attention thanks to its grander Pinot Noir producing neighbor until 1951, when the Nouveau received its official name and designated release date (the third Thursday of November.) Already a popular wine in the bistros of Paris at the time, due in part to the bright red fruit notes created by the carbonic maceration of the Gamay grapes grown in Beaujolais, the designation of a release date allowed winemakers not only to race to see who could get their wines to Paris the quickest, but to kick off an extremely successful marketing campaign for Beaujolais Nouveau Day. It even has its own slogan, “Le nouveau est arrivé.”
When winemaker, Georges Duboeuf launched his label in 1964, America was primed for the fruity, cotton candy wine. The timing, the week before Thanksgiving, made it an easy sell for holiday hostesses across the US. The wine was perfect to pair with turkey (thanks to that cranberry note), stuffing (thanks to that bright acidity), and in-laws (thanks to that ABV.)
Sales began to lag recently, and the events of 2020 have definitely negatively affected Nouveau’s popularity (I also believe that the American wine drinking palate has also evolved, and once wine drinkers discover Gamay in its more traditional form, especially some of the nicer Crus, going back to Nouveau can be challenging.) But that said, there are some fun and funky Nouveau style wines out there that are really good wines (and still awesome for your holiday table.)
For this whirlwind of a tasting with Mandy, I have brought in the wines I will be pouring this Sunday at The Wine Gallery in Colorado Springs in my Holiday Wine and Food Pairing classes. The classes are sold out, but you can still snag some of these wines from the store if you are looking for some amazing wines for your holiday table.
We’ll begin with a gorgeous Prosecco, because who doesn’t want some bubbles on a holiday?
Adriano Adami, Brut Prosecco Superiore: Pristinely straw yellow in color with gorgeous and persistent bubbles. Lovely golden apple, peach, wisteria, the honey notes of acacia flowers with subtle hints of brioche. It has a creamy mouthfeel that finishes long, elegant and clean with acidity to boot, thanks to a small addition of Chardonnay to the Glera varietal that is the grape formerly known as “Prosecco.” The more subtle carbonation in this Prosecco makes it a much more approachable and subtle style, perfect to wake up the taste buds (or to wake up on Christmas morning!) and to enjoy with family and friends during holiday gatherings.
Prosecco is my preference to start any formal wine tasting I guide. I find it’s delicate yet sublime elegance is a great addition to any party setting. This lovely style hails from the Veneto region in Northeast Italy, though Prosecco can also be from a bit further North and East in the region of Friuli. Glera is the primary grape for Prosecco, though the style, grape and region all shared the name “Prosecco” until 2009, the name of the Grape was changed to avoid bureaucratic nightmares in the protected status of the wine in the EU. Adriano Adami is a Prosecco Superiore DOCG from some of the most coveted vineyard space in Italy, Valdobbiadene. It is considered one of the wine maker’s most prized wines.
Prosecco pairs beautifully with a wide array of cheeses and meats. Traditional antipasti options, with their heavier salt content just really shine in the face of the slightly sweeter bubbles. However, my favorite pairing with this wine is ricotta cheese, but since we are exploring holiday pairings, I chose to pair this with my spin on the classic cornbread and sausage dressing. The notes of the wine delicately balance the herbaceous notes of sage and rosemary while the honey and peach hints really dance along the palate when enjoyed with the cornbread. You could certainly offer this wine with your first course or as a welcoming sip for guests, but this wine would also make a simply wonderful wine to enjoy with your entire Thanksgiving celebration. $20-$25
Up next is Oregon’s spin on Beaujolais Nouveau, Les Petits Fers, 100% Gamay Noir, 2021:
Pale ruby in color, aromatic notes of fine white pepper, dusty strawberry, fresh herbs like thyme, and a hint of chalk. In classic Gamay style, it also offers a gorgeous red fruit forward on the palate that makes it perfect for pairing with cranberry compote or jelly. This fun red is perfect for new red wine drinkers, in-laws, or long days spent wrapping and unwrapping gifts. It is totally fruit, juice, spice, and everything nice!
On the palate, the wine is light to medium bodied yet fruit-forward, with clear mineral notes and pleasantly refined acidity, making it the perfect holiday table wine. The tannins are subtle but do not overwhelm the palate, meaning this wine is light enough to pair with turkey or smoked ham.
Winemakers Kate Norris and Tom Monroe’s approach to this wine, their favorite varietal, is inspired by their time spent not only in Beaujolais but also the Loire River Valley. Both winemakers fell in love with the method of using Carbon Dioxide to help coax the bright red fruit Beaujolais Nouveau wines are known for but with the added complexity of layering in must that has only been semi-macerated in the CO₂. This is no simple party wine to be consumed on the third Thursday of November in Paris: this wine is meant to be sipped slowly and enjoyed with the common dishes you will find on most holiday tables.
Gamay is a favorite pairing of mine with most pork-based dishes, and I also enjoy serving it with a slight chill. In my classes this weekend, I have chosen to offer it with the bright acidity of a young goat cheese on a black pepper cracker with the bright sweetness of a cranberry jam as a nod to cranberry sauce. This red is certainly light enough that you can serve it with turkey and ham, and definitely with a house full of company. $30-$40
No holiday table of mine is complete without the king of wines, Pinot Noir, and of course, I will always choose Burgundy. This Domaine de Montille, Pinot Noir, Côte de Beaune, 2018, totally suits my palate and is a tremendous expression of Burgundy.
Bright ruby in color, with smooth tears, this classic Burgundy wine definitely offers the aromas of ripe cherry and blackberry with hints of fresh mushrooms and forest floor after a rain shower. I definitely would let this one breathe as the earthiness can overwhelm a sensitive nose (I personally love it), the more subtle fruit, and herbal notes. Acidity is balanced by furry (yes, furry) tannins. The red fruit continues tantalizes the palate while the finish pleasantly lingers.
Monthélie means “small mound or hill,” and describes the hillside where these grapes are cultivated. The soil itself is very stony and lacks the kind of topsoil we associate with farming. That makes the vines work harder to hold onto the hillside to produce their fruit which gives the wine finesse, freshness, and lightness. Winemaker Etienne de Montille is the current owner and winemaker, following in the footsteps of his father. While he seeks to continue to make wines in the traditional Burgundian style, he has also brought more modern approaches to the viticultural aspects of wine production to make sure that his estates can continue to produce the quality wines the region is known for (and that I love!)
This wine for me is one of my favorites and I usually offer Burgundies at my holiday table, especially at Christmas, when I love to serve either a smoked ham or prime rib. While the price point may intimidate, I feel that the holidays are the time to bring out the best wines in your collection and I think this one would certainly offer your guests a special treat while elevating your holiday meal. I paired this one with our gnocchi dish to highlight how this wine sings with the saltiness of ham and melds to perfection with the morels in our cheese sauce while cuts through the carbs we associate with potato dishes. This is a wine I would enjoy by the fire, while listening to holiday music, and absorbing the love of family and friends during my favorite time of year. $50-$60
And to mix things up a bit, I am actually finishing with a dry white wine that I intend to break the rules about wine and desserts and pair with a variation on apple pie. The Smith-Madrone Estate Riesling (100%), Napa Valley, 2017, really made my night when I was tasting these wines to write this blog post.
On the nose, the typical notes of honeysuckle, grapefruit, wet stone, and my favorite note when it comes to this varietal, petrol, this youthful Riesling is amazing on the nose but its sexiness only increases on the palate. With a definitely crunchy apple vibe, the silky texture of this wine swirls around the palate, oozing gorgeous honey with a bite of lemon zest that hits right in the middle of the palate. It is crisp, clean, and refreshing. Exactly what one needs when consuming a carb heavy holiday meal!
Smith-Madrone is one of the few remaining producers of Alsatian style Riesling left in the Valley and this representation really sets the bar high for others who may seek to try their hand at this varietal. It has a devoted following and is a white wine I would definitely consider laying down if you enjoy it as it is made for aging. Smith-Madrone is also a pioneer of dry-farming: beginning in 2017, Smith-Madrone has shifted away from irrigation and now most of their vineyard is completely watered naturally.
I have chosen to use this wine, along with cider Wassail spices, to caramelize Granny Smith apples and then bake them in puff pastry for my homage to that classic dessert, apple pie. The bright acidity from the wine will accent the buttery flakiness of the puff while adding its honey expression to the apples, bringing balance to the bite. This wine would be sensational with roasted or deep-fried turkey, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, and of course, apple pie. $32-$40
If you have any questions or would like a suggestion for your own holiday wine and food pairing, please be sure to shoot me an email at iamthewineyogi@gmail.com or leave a message here!
From my family to yours, we wish you a blessed Thanksgiving full of love and gratitude.
Cheers and namaste,
twy
the wine yogi 